Agilejack’s Drawstring Knitting Project Bag Tutorial

Copyright by Anne Ibach 2020

Here’s my very detailed tutorial on making Agilejack’s Drawstring Knitting Project Bag. If you have questions, or find errors, please leave me a comment and I’ll answer and edit the tutorial where appropriate. I hope you have fun making it and get creative and make your own variations!

The photos and video for this tutorial were taken as I made this bag. Click on any photo here to see a larger view.

The finished bag measures approximately 9.5 inches wide and 12 inches high when the bag top is open. It features a roomy zipper pocket on one side.

Here’s a batik variation I made for myself. The pieced block is made with 2 inch squares.

 

Here’s a yellow and red version I made for a friend.

 

Please feel free to make as many  bags as you want for yourself or for gifts. And feel free to send the link to this blog post to friends.

All I ask is that you don’t sell bags made from my design.

Also, feel free to make a paper copy for yourself, but please don’t distribute paper copies to others.

Materials

Fabric scraps cut into strips from 1.5 to 2.5 inches in width and in varying lengths.

Larger fabric pieces for bag body and lining, I like a different fabric for the lining. 1/3 yard each of body lining fabric is more than enough. 

Muslin for foundation for center block enough for two 9 inch squares

Nylon zipper, at least 10 inches or longer

Fusible batting, enough for two 11 X 12.5 inch pieces

Thread

Fabric cutting instructions.

I use mostly scraps, but like to use the same fabric for the sides, top, bottom and sides of the bag. But you could certainly make it really scrappy and use different fabrics for each piece.

Patchwork block– make two 8 inch square blocks (video tutorial linked below)

Fabric scrap strips of your choice,  cut into varying widths from 1.5 inches to 2.5 inches and varying lengths (2 inches to 9 inches long).

Muslin square for wonky log cabin foundation, cut two 9 inch squares

Lining: Cut two pieces, 11×12.5 inches

Casings – cut two pieces 4×11 inches (I like a fabric different from the body fabric)

Pocket lining – (Same as bag lining, or use something different) Cut one piece 8×18 inches

Bag sides – body fabric. Cut four pieces 2×8.5 inches

Bag bottom – body fabric. Cut two pieces 4×11 inches

Bag top – body fabric. Cut two pieces 1.5×11 inches

Drawstrings -body fabric, or choose something else. Cut two pieces 1.5 inches by 26 inches

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Scraps cut into strips ranging from 1.5 inches to 2.5 inches, of varying lengths
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Bag lining, fusible batting, pocket lining, strings.
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Bag body pieces prior to assembly

Let’s Get Sewing!

Make the Wonky Log Cabin Blocks

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Using the strips of scraps and the muslin squares, follow this video tutorial to make two 8 inch square wonky log cabin blocks for the front and back of your bag:

CLICK HERE for Agilejack’s Wonky Log Cabin Blocks Video Tutorial

This is just one type of block you could make for the front and back of your bag. You could piece a traditional quilt block, use another improve method to make a block, make a paper pieced block, etc… Get creative and have fun! All you have to do it make sure it measures 8×8 inches.

Make the drawstrings

Fold the two 1.5 inch x 26 inch strips in half lengthwise and press.

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Open up the strip and fold one outside edge to the center fold and press. Fold the second long edge into the center and press.

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Now fold the entire length of the strip in half and press, making sure the folded edges meet nicely. All of the raw edges should be hidden inside the fold.

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Stitch down the open side of each strip, very close to the edge, making sure you catch both front and back sides of the folded edges.

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Here’s the finished string:

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Make the casings

Fold the short side of each piece over 1/4 inch and press. Fold over 1/4 inch again and press.

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Stitch down this small hem on the four sides of the casings, staying close to the folded edge.

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Fold the casings in half along the long side, and press.

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Stitch a line along the length of each casing, 1/2 inch from the fold. Now stitch another line of stitching approximately 3/4 inches away from the first line of stitching.

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Assemble the zipper pocket

(all seam allowances are pressed toward the outside, and top stitched on the body fabric.)

Lay one of the 8 inch pieced blocks face up on the table. Lay the zipper (keep the zipper closed) along the top edge with the zipper pull facing down toward the pieced block. (The zipper will extend beyond the width of the pocket pieces. Center the zipper so that the same amount extends on both sides. Lay the lining right side down along the top edge of the 8 inch block and zipper, being careful to line up the top edges of all three, and clip or pin along the edge.

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Using a zipper foot, sew along the top edge with a 1/4 inch seam.

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Fold the 8 inch block and lining fabric away from the zipper and press. Top stitch about 1/8 inch away from the seam, catching the lining, zipper, and pieced block.

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Fold the pocket lining up behind the 8 inch block, with the pocket lining right side to right side.

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Line the pocket lining up with the top edge of the  zipper, and clip or pin. The fold at the bottom of the pocket lining will be about 1/2 inch below the bottom of the pieced block.

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Using your zipper foot, sew along the zipper tape with a seam allowance just shy of 1/4 inch.

VERY IMPORTANT — DON’T MISS THIS STEP!!! Slide the zipper pull so it’s over the pocket body, and stitch a vertical line across the zipper very close to the edge on both sides, making sure to stitch through the very edges of the fabric. I go back and forth several times to make sure it’s very secure. This stitching will secure the ends of the zipper in place as you assemble the rest of the bag.

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Trim away the excess zipper ends even with the sides of the zipper pocket.

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Assemble the bag front (the side with the zipper pocket).

(all seam allowances are pressed toward the outside, and top stitched on the body fabric.)

Sew the two side pieces onto the zipper pocket, aligning the short edge with the top of the zipper pocket on each side. They will not all line up on the bottom.

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Fold the side pieces back, press, and top stitch along the side piece about 1/8 inch away from the seam. 

Trim all the layers of the piece along the bottom so it measures 8 inches high. (this trimming allows this piece to be the same size as the non-pocket pieces on the other side — you added extra height with the zipper.)

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Sew the bag bottom piece onto the bottom of the zipper pocket piece. Make sure that you catch all the pocket layers in the seam.

Fold down the bag bottom, press, and topstitch along the bottom piece, about 1/8 inch from the seam.

Line the bag top up along the top edge of the zipper pocket and bag sides section and clip or pin. Sew a 1/4 inch seam using your zipper foot.

Fold the bag top up and press and top stitch about 1/8 inch from the seam.

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Assembling the bag back

This side of the bag goes together just like the front, except that there’s no pocket and no zipper.

Sew the bag sides to the left and right of the remaining pieced block, making sure to line them up with the top edge of the fabric. Fold back the sides, press, and top stitch. The side pieces will be about 1/2 inch too long. Trim off the excess so the bottom is one straight line.

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Sew the bag bottom and top onto the back piece, fold back, press and top stitch. Here’s some detail of the finished bag front/back. 

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Assembling the bag

In this portion of the project, you assemble the side with the pocket and the side without the pocket exactly the same way. So there aren’t separate instructions for front and back.  But I’ll refer to the bag front. You’ll need to assemble the bag back the same way.

Fuse the batting to the wrong side of the bag front and back according to the batting instructions. On the bag side with the pocket, you’ll fuse the batting directly onto the back of the pocket. See the photo below. 

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Lay the bag front with batting fused on right side up on your table. Center one of the casing pieces along the top edge of the bag front with the raw edge of the casing toward the top edge of the front and the fold edge toward the bottom of the bag. Lay one of the lining pieces right side down on top of the bag front and casing, being careful to line up the top edges.

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Clip or pin the top edge, then sew across the entire top with a 1/4 inch seam.   Then fold the lining and front away from the casing and press. DO NOT TOPSTITCH THIS PIECE .

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Line up all the pieces and cut a 2 inch square out each of the bottom corners of the layered piece. (These cut outs will become the gussets on the bottom of the bag) I like to use a square ruler of some kind to cut this portion. Here, I’m using my 5 inch square and lining up the corner on the 2 inch mark to cut.

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Repeat these steps with the second bag body piece, lining and casing.

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Open up one bag side and lay right side up on your table. Open up the second bag side and lay it right side down on top of the first piece. Put the lining side on top of the lining side and the bag front on top of the bag back. Pin the sides and bottoms, making sure to match the top seams carefully.

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Sew a 1/4 inch seam across the bottom of each side and along the two sides,  LEAVING ABOUT A 4-INCH OPENING ON ONE SIDE SEAM OF THE LINING. (When pinning this section I put two pins to mark the beginning and end of the side opening) Back tack on each side of this opening to reinforce the edges of the opening. DO NOT SEW ALONG THE SIDES OF THE 2 INCH CUT OUTS. 

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This is a good time to press back a 1/4 seam allowance on both sides of the opening in the lining. This will make it easier to line up these sides to sew them closed once the gussets have been sewn.

Take each bag bottom where the 2 inch cut out is and open the cut out. Line up the bottom seam with the side seam so that the open sides create a straight line. Pin or clip along this line, then sew with a 1/4 inch seam and back tack on each end. You have just sewn one gusset. You’ll need to do this to all four corners.

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Reach your hand into the open lining side seam and carefully turn the bag right side out. Put your hand inside and gently push out the corners of all four gussets. Finger press down a 1/4 inch fold on each side of the lining opening (this is a lot easier if you pressed them before making gussets).  Line up the two sides and sew a tiny seam to close the opening, making sure you catch both sides of the folded edges of the opening.

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Push the lining into the inside of the bag and carefully mold the bag pieces into shape, being careful to line up the top edge of the bag and finger press well. Then turn the bag inside out. With the right side of the bag facing up, top stitch all the way around the top of the bag, about 1/8 inch from the top edge.  Make sure to keep it all lined up and neat as you top stitch. (I turn the bag inside out because it makes it easier to sew the topstitching from the outside of the bag. You get a nicer finish this way).

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Threading Strings into Casing

Starting with the left side of the casing, thread one of the strings through each side of the casing, making sure that the two ends of the string end up on the right side of the bag.  Try to keep the string from twisting in the casing. I used a bodkin to pull the strings through, but you could use a safety pin or your other favorite method to thread the string through the casing.

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Now pull the two sides of the remaining string through the casing from the right side, making sure that both ends of this string end up on the left side.

Here’s how the strings are arranged within the casings. This loop arrangement allows you to close the bag by pulling on the ends of the strings on each side of the bag.

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Tie the two ends of each string into a knot and leave about 1/2 inch of the end of the strings beyond the knot.

You’re done!!! I hope you like how it turned out!

Copyright by Anne Ibach 2020

Knitting Project Bag Morphing

Several months ago I had an urge to make a drawstring bag, so I whipped one up from scraps. I recently started using it as a knitting project bag, and quickly realized that I was in need of a zipper pocket to hold extra circular needles, stitch markers, my scissors, and other sundry stuff — like my phone and my keys.

So the bag has to morph!

I whipped up another one, but added the zipper pocket on one side.

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It’s made from fabrics left over from my turquoise Algorithm quilt that I completed in December. You can see it here.

Here’s the first one I made with fabrics left over from the first red and yellow Algorithm quilts I made. See the quilt here.

It’s basically a pattern I made up after seeing several pouches I liked, incorporating features from several bags and made in a size that’s good for the types of projects I make. I finally wrote down all the measurements for the bag pieces, so the next one should be a little quicker. I have several friends who want one.

I pieced the wonky log cabin panel on a piece of  muslin, which holds it all together nicely.

The pocket I added on the front is roomy and will be really practical.

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It’s a great bag for a smaller project like a hat or socks. It has a nice deep gusset and is quite roomy. The drawstring makes it so the mouth opens wide so it’s easy to get things in and out.

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I’m thinking of writing up a tutorial for this pouch, similar to my Zipper Pouch Tutorial, seen here.  Leave a comment if you’re interested in a tutorial for this.

Two More Tiny Canvasses to Go

I’ve managed to post something I’ve made every day for the first 28 days of our 30 day project. And now, there are just two days left and two canvasses left. I’ve really enjoyed this project, but it’s been a bit difficult to do on some days.

Here’s today’s and yesterday’s canvasses. I’m calling this my “floral acrylic stage.”

I just love the way these have turned out. The colors make me very happy. And I like that you can tell they’re flowers, but they are somewhat abstract. I have a lot of variations of these that I want to make.

Before the floral stage, I had a very serious dotting phase. These little pieces make me so happy! and they are so much fun to make.

Not all of my dotting attempts have been successful. This first one below did not turn out anything like what was in my head. I consider it a complete fail. In fact, I didn’t even post it on the Facebook for the 30 day project. The second one… well… it started out as a dotting piece, and went so spectacularly bad that I blended all the wet paint on the canvas together and made this dark monstrosity.

The week of January 24 I had to go to Austin, TX, for work. In anticipation of that trip and wanting to keep up with the project, I bought some cheap colored pencils to take along.

So before that trip, I made a zipper pouch for my colored pencils as the day’s project. It’s really nice to be able to make a custom pouch when you need one for a specific purpose.

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One thing I learned in my colored pencil phase is that I don’t so much enjoy working with colored pencils. But I plugged along, posting one piece every day while I was in Austin.

On the flight back from Austin I started a new knitted wool cap and that was the project I posted for that day. It’s a great cap and will be a workhorse for whoever receives it. I’d like to keep it for myself, but it’s rarely cold enough here for me to need a knitted cap.

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And a couple random projects that defy categorization… a mandala stone, and a cheerful little sunflower.

I think I’m going to be a little sad when the 30-day project is done.

30 Mini Canvases in 30 Days

A friend of mine started a 30 Mini Canvases in 30 Days project for January. Members of the group are creating one piece of art every day during the month and share it with the group on Facebook.

Here’s my first entry on January 1. This one is water color.

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The point is not to create perfect art. The point is to try new things… new ideas, new techniques, new mediums. And it’s been really fun. I’ve pushed myself a little and have been really happy with most of the results.

Because I’m usually finishing up my piece each day after midnight, I post my photos first thing in the morning. Here’s the piece I made tonight  that I’ll post tomorrow– and I just love it! It’s acrylic paint on a 3×3 canvas.

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This piece is still unfinished. I have to do the detail and shading. But it’s pretty fun and I like where it’s going. Couldn’t get it done in one day!  This is acrylic on a 5×7 canvas. It’s Rico — that big old ear should give it away.

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Here’s the rest. Click on each photo below to read the caption and get a bigger view.

This has been a really fun project and there have been some really amazing things created by members of the project. What a bunch of creative, artistic and brave friends I have!

I’m really looking forward to trying some ideas I’ve had rattling around my head.

Turquoise Algorithm Finished

I just got this quilt back from my long arm quilter and I’m really happy with it. It’s not as exciting as the red and yellow version. It’s more calm and sedate, but it’s still pretty.

It’s all Kaffe Fassett Collective fabrics except for the white strips, which are a white on white batik.

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This was the algorithm quilt that started it all. I had seen it posted on the Kaffe Fassett Collective Facebook group and wanted to make it from the moment I saw it. I had most of the fabrics in my stash, but added a couple to make it a little bigger.

Here’s my original blog post on this quilt.

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The backing is the citrus color way of Kaffe’s lotus leaf fabric. This is one of my favorite Kaffe fabrics and I’ve wanted to use this color way for a backing since it came out a couple years ago. I just love it with this quilt… it’s bright and vibrant and ads a nice pop of color to the monochromatic front. It also appears in the front of the quilt.

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The quilting design is Urban Elements Bohemian Beaded Shade. I love the way the curved lines and circles break up the angular attitude of the blocks. It’s quilted with a light turquoise thread.

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It’s very similar to the design I used on the red and yellow algorithm quilt, but it’s oriented vertically rather than horizontally and it’s more dense and has more circles.

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Here’s the back of the quilt. I used the turquoise ferns to make the backing fit the front and to avoid having to match the print. I like the way the strip adds interest and it makes a great place for the label.

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This quilt will be a house warming gift for my sister and her husband. It’s only the second quilt I’ve made where I included a label. My friend Carol embroidered the label for me on her machine.

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I’m going to wait until after the holidays to ship it. I hate the idea of it getting lost in the rush of the holidays.

Hexagon Finished

I got my Kaffe Fassett Collective hexagon quilt back from my long arm quilter a couple of months ago and I’m really happy with it.

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I based this off of a quilt I saw on the KFC page on Facebook. It’s basically the My Fair Lady quilt pattern in one of Kaffe’s books. Can’t remember off hand which one.

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I wish it photographed better. it’s much softer looking in person. These photos look pretty harsh.

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I made this out of strip sets. It was a lot of fun to make. I love the gray background fabrics.

The backing is made from Kaffe’s Paisley Jungle in tangerine. I added the strips of guinea flower because I knew matching the fabric would be a huge job and completely out of my skill set!  I just LOVE that backing!

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Here’s an earlier post on this quilt.

It’s quilted with a pattern called Bubbles Everywhere. It it even better than I imagined it would be.

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I think I’m going to keep this one for myself.

 

 

Lucky Stars Quilt Top Checked Off

What a fun quilt to make! And it went together really quickly. Here’s the original post on this quilt.

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That’s Bender in the photo. He thinks quilting is really boring. So many things he’d rather be doing!

A friend of mine just made this quilt and even gave me her scraps to use in my quilt. So our quilts are almost the same quilt! I did add a bunch of batik scraps I had left over from making pouches.

I really love this little quilt. I just love the wonderful variety of batiks. There are some fabrics that only appear in one piece! It really is scrappy. I should count them, but I’m pretty sure there are more than 40 different fabrics in this quilt.

My friend struggled with her blocks on the design wall. She had sewn the 15 inch blocks together, and then moved the entire block to arrange the colors.

I decided to go about it differently to see if it was easier to arrange all the colors. I sewed all the stars first and tossed them up on the design wall and moved them around until they were arranged the way I wanted them.  I left enough space to add the larger strips to the design wall.

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Then I added the larger strips to two ends of each block, on the top and bottom of one block, then on the sides of the next block, which is how they would be arranged in the final lay out. Once I had the colors arranged the way I wanted, I sewed the strips to either end of the stars, and put them back on my design wall in the same place.

A friend commented that at this stage, they look like a collection of flags from around the world.

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The next step was to sew all the smaller strips together in sets of two. Then I added these pieces to the design wall.

And I was right… this method made the layout much easier. Rather than having to move an entire block and try to get the colors to work, I could simply take one of the two-strip pieces and move it to another location.

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Once I had all the strips placed on the design wall, I shared a photo with my friends and even sent it to my long arm quilter. She immediately noticed something that needed to be moved. This is the photo she texted back to me.

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She said that those two vertical yellow strips really stood out to her.

So to fix them, all I had to do was rotate the center portion of that block and it took care of the issue… and it didn’t create any additional issues.

I will definitely put additional quilts on this pattern together the same way. And I already have another one in the planning stage.

Here’s the backing I’m going to use on this quilt. I saw it in a really fun little store in Bountiful, Utah, that has a really amazing selection of batiks. Every time I go there I buy way too many pieces of fabric. And when I saw this fabric, I immediately wanted it for the back of this quilt.

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Boy… that’s a terrible photo!

Now I need to decide what I’ll use for the binding. I’m thinking something that plays with the oranges and reds in the quilt backing. Pretty sure there isn’t anything in my stash so I’m just going to have to go shopping!

Fabric Greeting Cards

I had been thinking about making these fabric greeting cards for a while now and a couple of weeks ago found some of these cards in my local craft store. The cards are made for 4×6 photos. You just slip the photos in. The image shows through the die cut opening on the front of the card,  and the inside of the card is nicely finished and the back of the photo is covered with the quality card stock.

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So I bought some 4×6 index cards, cut some scraps of Kaffe Fassett Collective fabrics to 4×6 inches and used a glue stick to affix the fabric to the cards. Then I trimmed the cards about 1/8 inch all the way around in an effort to make them slip more easily into the cards.

And in just a few minutes, I had some really gorgeous blank greeting cards that will be perfect for gifts during the holidays.

The first cards I bought were around $15 for 10 cards. I found some on Amazon for about $20 for 40 cards. I made 40 cards in a matter of minutes!  The cards and envelopes are really nice quality. I’ve already bought another box of 20 to make some more cards for gifts.

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These are all so pretty! Click on each photo for a more detailed view.

Once they were done, I sorted them into sets of four cards and packaged them with envelopes in a cellophane packet. They look really high-end and they’re really pretty and cheerful. These large print KFC fabrics really work well for this project.

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My First Commission

I finished this quilt and shipped it off earlier this week. Since it has arrived at its destination, I can share it here now.

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And you’re not seeing double. This is the second quilt I’ve made out of these fabrics.

Someone saw it online and wanted to buy the original, but wanted me to make it bigger by adding big borders. Well, I loved the first quilt so much, and I felt like the wide borders would just make it look odd, so I talked the buyer into having me start over and make the same quilt bigger, and they agreed.

I was lucky to find the same layer cake that the first quilt was made from. So I ordered it lickity split and was on my way.

The buyer has blue bedroom walls and wanted blue fabrics in the quilt. I convinced them to let me find reds and yellows that had bits of blue, and I made a visit  to my LQS that has a good selection of KFC fabrics. I found a handful of fabrics that had pieces of blue in them, and the fabrics did the trick.

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I went back and forth on the quilting design several times. The buyer wanted the quilt more “fluffy” so I opted for a looser design. I love the way the long wavy lines work with the vertical lines of this quilt. Here’s the quilting pattern that my long armer stitched into the quilt. It’s Urban Elementz Modern Beach Bubbles design.

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We chose a light yellow thread for the quilting, thinking it would read somewhat bright. I love the way it appears and disappears in the fabrics.

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This is the first quilt where I’ve included a label. The buyer requested one, so I enlisted the help of my friend, Carol, who has a top notch embroidery machine. I think I’ll do more labels in the future!

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I opted to use the black and white jumble for the binding. For me, there just wasn’t any other choice. I just love what that fabric does on this quilt!!!

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The buyer said that the quilt exceeded their expectations and they appear to be thrilled with it. Plans on it becoming a family heirloom. What a lovely thought!

Turquoise Algorithm Quilt

Yes. I’ve made a lot of quilts on this pattern. Four to be exact.

But this is the one that started it all.

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I originally saw one of these posted on the Kaffe Fassett Collective page on Facebook, made by Lori Allison who owns All About Color Quilting and I fell in love with it immediately. I knew that I’d have to make it. And amazingly, I actually have the book that the pattern is in. My friend Linda gave it to me a couple of Christmases ago with the accompanying ruler.

(The pattern is called Algorithm by GE Designs. It’s in the Stripology Squared book.)

So I made a list of the fabrics I wanted to use and realized that I had most of them in my stash, but did have to purchase a couple of pieces. There were also a couple pieces in the original that I omitted and added a couple of other fabrics.

I took all the fabrics with me on vacation in August/September and cut out all the squares and strips for my quilt and cut out the same fabrics for my friend who has made the same quilt. I purchased the backing fabric while I was on vacation.

After I got home I got all the 10 inch squares cut and sewed in my white on white strips assembly line style. To make this process go more quickly, I folded all the strips in half, wrong sides together, and pressed the crease. Then I folded all the half-squares in half, right sides together, and pressed down 1/2 inch on the fold.

Here’s the quilt pieces all prepped and ready to start sewing. Once they’re prepped like this, you can really sew them all together quickly. it’s worth the time to do this work ahead of sewing.

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These creases made it really easy to match up the center of each piece with the center of the strip, and the varying wrong side/right side folds made the pieces nest nicely together for sewing.

I love sitting down at the sewing machine and really cranking through piecing quickly. I had these 56 squares all sewn together in a couple of hours. The first photo here shows the white on white I used. I like it much better than a solid white.

Once I got all the blocks sewn, squared up and cut, I tossed them up on the design wall. I usually like to just get them all up and then start moving things around. Part of this process usually involves sending photos to friends and having them point out things I’m not seeing. It can be hard to see areas that need work when you’ve been looking at it for hours on end.

This photo is of my friend’s quilt. I marked it up and sent it back to her showing a couple areas that needed to be adjusted. She sent plenty of photos of my quilt back with mark up as well.

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As I was putting my quilt together I pretty much knew that I wanted to use the citrus color way of Kaffe’s lotus leaf fabric. I just love the fabric, and this color way has been a favorite of mine since it came out. This fabric is in the front of the quilt as well.

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This quilt is at my long arm quilter as I type. Here’s the quilting design that she will be using. It will be really great with the verticality of the blocks. It’s Bohemian Beaded Shade from Urban Elementz.

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This quilt will be only my second with a label. It’s going to be a house warming gift for my sister and her husband. They will be surprised.